If there's one word that has filled my DMs this year, it's "polynucleotides". Usually followed by "…what actually are they?" and "would they help my under-eyes?"
So I thought I'd sit down and answer it properly. No jargon, no hype. Just what I tell clients when they're sitting in the chair in my Ashford studio.
So, what are polynucleotides?
Polynucleotides are purified fragments of DNA, usually sourced from salmon or trout. I know, it sounds odd. Stay with me.
They're injected in tiny amounts into the skin, where they're designed to support the skin's own repair processes. Rather than adding volume or freezing movement, the idea is to improve the quality of the skin itself – its texture, hydration and resilience over time.
That's the bit I love. It isn't about changing your face. It's about helping the skin you already have to look healthier and better rested.
Where are they used?
The most common areas I'm asked about are:
Under the eyes – for crepey, thin-looking skin and that tired, hollow look
Face – for overall texture, fine lines and dullness
Neck and chest – areas that often show change earlier than we'd like
Hands – the giveaway we all forget about
[CHECK: confirm which areas you treat with polynucleotides and the brand you use]
Who are they for?
In my experience, polynucleotides suit people who want a natural, gradual improvement rather than an instant change. They're often a good fit for:
Anyone noticing thinner, drier or more crepey skin, especially around the eyes
Women in perimenopause and menopause, when falling oestrogen affects collagen and skin thickness (this is a big one for my clients)
People who want "fresher" rather than "done"
Anyone who's a bit nervous about injectables and wants to start gently
They're not for everyone. Because they come from fish, I'll always ask about fish allergies at consultation, along with your medical history, medication and skin goals. If they're not right for you, I'll tell you – and suggest what might be.
What actually happens at an appointment?
Every client starts with a consultation. We talk through your skin, your concerns and what you'd like to see, and I'll be honest about what's realistic.
On the day, I'll cleanse the area and apply numbing cream if needed. The treatment itself is a series of small injections and usually takes around 20–30 minutes.
Afterwards, you may see small bumps where the product was placed, plus some redness or occasional bruising. These usually settle within a day or two, which is why I suggest not booking one the day before a big event.
How many sessions will I need?
Polynucleotides work best as a course. Typically that's three sessions, two to three weeks apart, with maintenance sessions after that. [CHECK: confirm your course structure and pricing]
Results are gradual. Most people notice changes building over the weeks after their course rather than overnight. Everyone's skin responds differently, so I can't promise a specific result – but I can promise you an honest plan.
Polynucleotides vs skin boosters – what's the difference?
I get this question a lot, especially since my post comparing Profhilo and Seventy Hyal.
In simple terms, skin boosters like Profhilo and Seventy Hyal are hyaluronic acid based, so they focus on deep hydration. Polynucleotides work differently, supporting the skin's regeneration. They can be used on their own or as part of a wider plan alongside boosters, microneedling or peels.
The best choice depends on your skin, your budget and what's bothering you most – which is exactly what a consultation is for.
Why I'm careful about who I treat
Injectable treatments should always be carried out by someone qualified, insured and properly trained. I'm fully qualified and insured, and I'll never rush you into anything.
My studio is a calm, private space in Park Farm, Ashford, and I see clients from across Kent. Many of them come to me because they want someone who'll be straight with them. That's always my priority.
Thinking about polynucleotides?
If you've been wondering whether they could help your under-eyes or your skin in general, come and have a chat. No pressure, no hard sell – just honest advice.
You can book a consultation through the website, or send me a DM with the word GLOW on Instagram and I'll get back to you.
Liz x
